Watch full set sold in October 2016.
Baselworld 2014:
A column-wheel flyback chronograph, dual-time Nautilus in stainless steel. The new Patek Philippe 5990/1A looks just as good as it sounds on paper, taking the still-modern Gerald Genta design to new technical and aesthetic heights. With an all new calibre, design updates, and the right mix of useful complications, the 5990/1A enters the market with a bold, yet thoughtful, consideration for modern watchmaking.
The 40.5mm stainless steel case retains the hallmark styling of the Patek Philippe’s iconic Nautilus range, with large pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock for the chronograph functions. Brushed stainless steel adds a modern touch to the bezel, contrasting nicely with the polished case sides and pushers. The bracelet features the same mix of finishes, with highly polished center links offset by brushed finishing on the main links.
The dial keeps the industrial look of its predecessor from the ref. 5980/1, crafted of black brass with horizontal embossing. Dark-to-light gradation emanating from the dial perimeter results in a subtly dynamic color shift across the dial. This shift places more emphasis on the two subdials of note: a circular date scale at 12 o’clock and a 60-minute register for the chronograph at 6. Note that the Patek Philippe logo is placed within this 60-minute register, maintaining visual balance with the number-heavy subdial at top. There are also "Home" and "Local" day/night indicators at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively.
The 5990/1A features a new self-winding calibre, CH 28-520 C FUS, with a minimum power reserve of 45 hours. Calibre CH 28-520 C FUS contains four complications to be exact (chronograph, date, day/night, and travel time) and is efficiently sized at 28 x 31mm with a thickness of 6.95mm. Naturally, and justly so, the movement is shown off through a sapphire case back.
All in all, there’s no denying that the 5990/1A ticks a lot of boxes: modern design, solid construction, unquestionable quality, and, importantly, utility. The combination of lightweight, durable stainless steel with useful complications makes this new release particularly relevant for both fans of the Nautilus and new collectors alike.
